Ivan Pikulev on Bar Culture and Acting Craft

You dreamed of becoming an actor, and became a bartender instead. What acting quality helps behind the bar? How much can a bar substitute for a stage? And is a bartender a bit of an actor, or is that a completely different story?

Yes, I dreamed of becoming an actor. It's hard to single out one specific quality that helps — these are, after all, fundamentally different professions. Sure, you can, and sometimes even should, draw inspiration from acting craft and apply some of those skills to the work behind the bar. But these days I no longer think it's essential for every bartender. Applying acting techniques to our work is an extra talent, one not everyone is given. A lot of professional bartenders do perfectly well without it.

If you had to open your dream bar, what would it look like?

It would definitely be a place where I myself and my friends would want to go to relax. Somewhere you can eat well, drink a quality cocktail, and simply enjoy a distinctive atmosphere. It would definitely be "mature" — with a character shaped over years. A place with its own individuality, one people come to not just for fashionable trappings, but for an exceptional experience.

You've trained more than a thousand bartenders. And what have your students taught you?

I'd say students don't teach me so much as inspire me! Especially when you see them putting their knowledge into practice, surprising and delighting guests. It gives you a powerful drive to keep moving forward, to look for new approaches to teaching. That mutual exchange of energy is where the real value of passing on experience lies.

What was the first cocktail you ever made? And which cocktail became your "calling card"?

Honestly, I don't remember exactly what my first cocktail was — most likely a classic whiskey and Coke, given that my first job was at a bowling club. As for a calling card, I don't really have one, but my time behind the bar has taught me to experiment with different recipes. I often add mezcal to cocktails — its smoky notes give a drink a distinctive character. If we're talking classics, nothing can compare to a good old whiskey sour and its twists. I usually use Dewar's as the base and try pairing it with all sorts of unconventional ingredients..

Trends in bar culture keep changing. What's in first place today: trendy cocktails, new technology, or a return to the classics?

Non-alcoholic cocktails and spirits are in fashion. That trend is gaining momentum, and more and more interesting solutions are showing up in that direction. Maybe people have started paying closer attention to their health, but at the same time they don't want to give up the bar experience and the flavors a professional bartender can offer.

Is bartending, for you, a science or an art? How is the bartender's role changing in the 21st century?

Bartending isn't so much a science or an art as it is a combination of both, and above all, hard work — both physical and emotional. Today we're seeing a situation reminiscent of America in the '50s and '60s, when every home had a shaker and a mini-bar. A lot of people experiment with cocktails at home themselves, and they turn out to be surprisingly good at it: watch a short reel, order a delivery, and just like that you're a real bartender.

Whisky is a drink with history. Which story about this drink resonates with you most?

There really are a lot of stories. What resonates with me is the Scots' whole approach to whisky-making and to its history. I always tell the guys that behind a bartender there aren't just bottles with pretty labels — behind them is history, one that's sometimes even shaped the formation of nations!

What dish pairs perfectly with whisky?

It all depends on the specific expression. Pairing with a smoky island whisky, say, dishes like roasted nuts, smoked meat, or cheese fit perfectly. Among heartier dishes: pork ribs, cold lamb, salmon, and grilled vegetables pair beautifully. With a further-cask-finished whisky, it all depends on the cask — Dewar's 8 Caribbean Smooth, for instance, harmonizes perfectly with desserts. A lemon tart or a classic tiramisu would be an excellent choice. In cocktails, in turn, you can experiment with the most unexpected flavors imaginable — whisky is versatile, and that's its charm.

You've worked at all sorts of venues — from a bowling club to premium bars. Which experience turned out to be the most valuable?

I can't single out any one in particular. Every experience, even a negative one, turned out to be valuable, since it carries a lesson you can later apply to other situations. So I'm glad I was lucky enough to work at bars with different styles and concepts. It's exactly that variety of experience that helps me grow as a professional.

Is there a favorite place you always come back to for inspiration? Maybe a bar, a restaurant, or a city?

I'm inspired by any kind of travel and change of scenery. Every new place, whether it's a bar or a restaurant in a city that's new to me, gives me fresh impressions and clears my head.

In one of your interviews, you said you want to give something back to the bar industry, not just take from it. What exactly do you mean by that?

Right now I've launched an educational project, "Otkryvai Novoye" ("Discover Something New"). It's a series of films about things and objects behind the bar and beyond — things we use in our lives practically every day but rarely study. The first episode was about ice. I think these films could be shown at every bar school in the country