BRO&N on Malaya Bronnaya: Breakfast Review

Bro&N on Malaya Bronnaya is one of two identically named restaurants by Arkady Novikov. I usually go to Bro&N on Kamergersky Lane, but decided to switch it up this time, and the result raised questions about the design, especially the table settings, and about the menu, which looks like a stack of scrap paper. The concept is classic Italian cuisine with various types of pizza and homemade pasta, rounded out by a meat section with burgers and steaks. Chef Mirko Zago (Aist, Onest) runs the kitchen — an Italian provocateur-chef who takes real pride in that title. Either I missed the provocation, or I tried the wrong thing. On Saturday morning, no more than 30% of the restaurant was occupied, which explains the speed of service. Breakfast here runs from 09:00 to 12:00 on weekdays and from 10:00 to 14:00 on weekends. 

Interior

Natalia Belonogova's studio (Saray, Jun, She) is behind the interior. It struck me as too bright and, in places, even gaudy: multicolored chairs and tableware, patterned panels on the walls, and overall it feels like they overdid it a bit with the details. The seating is placed too close together, which creates a sense that there isn't enough air in the room. On the plus side — plenty of natural light, thanks to the large panoramic windows. 

What did I try? 

— Cappuccino, 430₽. A long wait for a half-empty restaurant, though the coffee itself is decent. 
— Classic croissant, 250₽. A good base, though not the best in the city. I chose butter and strawberry jam (+250₽) separately as toppings. Ideally these should just come with the classic version already. 
— Sunny-side-up eggs with tomatoes, 490₽. I pictured the sweet tomatoes in the eggs as fresh, but in reality it was lecho poured over a nicely cooked fried egg, with a basil leaf added. Could use more greens and (fresh!) tomatoes. 
— Homemade ricotta with persimmon, 390₽. A delicate texture with seasonal persimmon — a great choice. 

I never stop being amazed at how two places with the same name can leave polar opposite impressions. A basic, gastronomically unremarkable breakfast in gaudy table settings. They didn't ask for feedback, so it's unlikely breakfast at BRO&N on Patriarch's Ponds will stay in the Vkusonomika guide.

Overall, Patriarch's Ponds is gradually losing ground. I don't get who's supposed to enjoy these crowds, sometimes even shady-looking, on Malaya Bronnaya? There's a sense that it's all down to decentralization. I really hope restaurant groups will gradually start heading not to where everything already exists, but instead to where there's still nothing. I, for one, live near Paveletskaya, where there's simply nowhere to go besides Kofemania, even though good dining spots would be very much in demand there.