Omela: Dinner Review

A relatively new resident of Ostozhenka — restaurant Omela by Sofia Meladze (yes, the daughter, no mistake there) — was compared to quiet luxury when it launched. The menu is a collection of European comfort food by chef Vladislav Porodnya (Cho Asia, Lucky izakaya bar, Beluga). The starters section includes cheese arancini, carrots with feta and sage, beets with chèvre and arugula; among the hot dishes — wagyu with black garlic, filet mignon with Kampot pepper, octopus with potato and romesco sauce. The wine list is organized not by region but by the terrain where the vineyards sit: meadows, mountains, volcanoes, oceans and seas, rivers and lakes, hills and terraces. Several sheets of the main menu are laid out neatly, and the overpricing catches your eye immediately.

Interior

The restaurant is split into two rooms; one of them has space for groups — you can settle at a large marble table. The interior features light tones and natural textures. Pleasant combinations, you'd think, but the lighting ruins it all, bouncing off the ceiling and falling not just on surfaces but the floor too, creating the atmosphere of an uncomfortable hotel. I stopped by on a Wednesday evening to check it out: the second room was reserved for an event, and the first turned out to have exclusively women in it. While waiting for friends, I quickly realized that pushing the round tables together is inconvenient for groups.

 What did I try? 

— Carrot with pumpkin purée and sage, 890₽. An interesting combination and presentation, with a slightly smoky cream.  

— Vitello tonnato, 1090₽. Not the best product quality, a mix of sauce with capers and onion. Pretty far from the classic version, don't recommend. 

— Caesar with crispy chicken, 990₽. A big portion: breaded chicken, lettuce leaves, tomatoes, and... a sauce with fishy notes. Confirmed once again that a better Caesar than the one at Propaganda is still hard to find. 
— Risotto with porcini mushrooms and marbled beef, 1190₽. The beef is laid on top as tartare (not heat-treated), together with onion and truffle. A bold choice, and it would have all been fine, but the rice let it down. 
— Black cod, 1480₽. Served with celery purée; the fish lacked salt. Otherwise, a decent hot dish. 

Overall impression

A pleasant interior that, with better lighting, could set the restaurant apart among Ostozhenka's residents in a good way. Decent service: lively and attentive, especially when it comes to picking wine. The only thing that threw me off was that the dishes didn't come out together, even though we were dining as a group. In the end, the one woman at our table had to wait for her order. They didn't ask for feedback, so I suppose I'm giving it through this review instead. Unfortunately, the place can't make it into our restaurant guide just yet.

I got the impression the place was made for insiders rather than for business. It might become a dining spot for residents of the neighboring streets, and the crowd there is good. The only question is:  will they choose this restaurant, or head to their usual Patriki spots after all. In my view, the chances of success could improve with a breakfast menu, which isn't there yet.