Dinner at Teatro on Bolshaya Nikitskaya

Teatro Cafe is Alexander Oganezov's new restaurant, immersing guests in the theatrical atmosphere of the sixties. The name echoes not just the interior but also the location — four theaters sit close by. Inside are two dining rooms, and for those seeking something more intimate, there's a small wine bar in its own separate room. Chef Ruslan Polyakov (Remy, Muse) runs the kitchen, with the menu nodding to classic French cuisine: foie gras, French onion soup, julienne. Pastry chef Ilya Zamogilin-Sudzilovsky (Remy, Gentle) handles desserts. The bar menu is likewise steeped in the atmosphere of France: you'll find the Bonjour cocktail by head bartender Vitaly Skripchinsky and wines selected by sommelier Dmitry Bazashvili. I stopped by Teatro for dinner just two days after opening.

Interior

The interior carries the restaurant's concept forward and builds the atmosphere of a French bistro. It was designed by Gosha Aigunyan's studio (Soma, Sol). They opted for a bright, lively visual style, steering clear of monochrome color schemes. The ceilings carry murals with fairy-tale motifs, the walls lacquered wood.

Vintage light fixtures build the retro vibe, and paintings by Pavel Pepperstein and Alexander Mogilevsky, along with Henri Matisse-style cutouts, add art to the mix. You can settle into one of two dining rooms:  the first has individual tables and sofas for larger groups, the second has intimate booths and seats at the chef's table. 

What did I try? 

— Mozzarella, tomatoes, 750₽. A decent starter option, with olives and basil added to the dish. The tomatoes were a bit disappointing — they could have been better quality.
— Salmon rillettes, 850₽. I'm not a huge fan of rillettes, but decided to try it as an experiment, and didn't regret it. The rillettes are mixed with egg, giving a flavor reminiscent of a mimosa salad, but with a different texture. Served with a piece of toasted bread and sauce.  
— French onion soup, 550₽. An ageless French classic, done by the book: croutons-cheese-onion. It could have been thicker, but still good. 

— Mushroom julienne, 650₽. Served in a "bun," with lettuce leaves and a cucumber on the side. Unfortunately, the attempt to make it original fell flat here. 
— Octopus, crushed potatoes, 1800₽. I can recommend it as a hot dish. Tasty.
— Striploin in pepper sauce, 1500₽. I liked the sauce, a good balance of spice and heat. No complaints about the cooking either, but the product quality is far from the best.

Overall impression 

I liked the atmosphere and the service; I have questions about the menu and the flavor combinations. Another obvious downside — the tables across from the open kitchen. They're placed too far away, and it felt uncomfortable. I'm giving the place a chance and adding it to the restaurant guide, though with a minimal rating. I made allowances for the fact that the restaurant just opened. I'm confident the team can iron out the issues and get things running smoothly. Good luck!