Dinner at Restaurant Grassa Near Patriarch's Ponds

An Italian restaurant with traditional Mediterranean dishes. The menu's foundation is pizza, pasta, risotto, like in any Italian concept, but with witty twists. In the rigatoni, for instance, a thick tuna bolognese and cod roe; in the paccheri, braised oxtail; the all'Amatriciana comes with cured pork-cheek guanciale. The cocktails are simpler: Bellini, Sgroppino, Negroni, Aperol Spritz. It's worth noting the kitchen is run by one of the founding brothers, Vadim Borisikhin, who trained at London's Le Cordon Bleu and interned at France's L'Impertinent.

The first thing that catches the eye is an interior atypical for Patriarch's Ponds, created by designers Da Bureau. A white ceiling, plenty of veneer and steel, restrained tones of deliberately theatrical drapery, quality furnishings. A mix of vintage and understated modernity. Unusual zoning: at the very least, two communal tables stand out, meant for large groups or solo strangers. The open kitchen draws the eye too, though the top shelves could use some tidying. Simple table settings, clean and understated (aside from the napkin holders), and a candle is lit at each table in the evening. Attentive service: it's nice that the waiter and sommelier can give advice and help navigate the menu.

What did I try?

• Green salad, 1100₽. A well-matched company of ingredients, broccoli included, with a harmonious dressing. Good for two — the portion is enough to share with your dinner companion. 

• Beef tartare, 1300₽. Served with a crouton twice the size of the tartare itself. It'd be better the other way around. Especially since the tartare itself is done first-class: great meat, olive oil, salt, and pepper. One of those rare cases where you can taste the quality of the product. 
• Scallop crudo, 1100₽. Same miniature (almost mockingly small) portion. The scallop's flavor was preserved with real finesse, without the sauce spoiling it. Balanced and tasty. Worth noting both starters came out almost instantly. 
• Grilled dorado with guazzetto sauce, 1700₽. Served with a bold sauce and a few pods of green beans. A striking presentation on a large plate. 

• Risotto all'Amatriciana, 1800₽ — an unusual variation with cured pork-cheek guanciale. Bold in flavor, but an acquired taste. I'm sure that whichever one you pick, any risotto here will be cooked at a solid level. 
• Tiramisu, tonka bean, 650₽. Served in attractive metal ware, topped with a scattering of coarse salt. A textbook sweet-and-salty combination, yet still impressive, the tonka bean aroma especially. The impressively deep local tea collection was also a surprise, incidentally — keep it in mind when you move on to dessert.

Grassa is an intimate restaurant (seating around forty-five guests), atypical for the lanes around Patriarch's Ponds. Everything here seems to ask for a thoughtful eye from the guest: the restrained interior with its great details, and a menu that only masquerades as Italian classics. The concept reads more like a grown-up smart casual than the usual fine dining. Quick, attentive service: the team clearly knows how to take feedback and act on it. In short, the place makes it into the restaurant guide with a high score, entirely deserved.

🏴 Bogoslovsky per., 16/6, s1
📞  +7(925)114-19-19