Weekend Breakfast at Restaurant Niki

Weekend Breakfast at Restaurant Niki

Russian-cuisine restaurant Niki is a must-visit inside “Khudozhestvenny”.
29.01.24

Restaurant Niki, serving modern Russian cuisine from Lucky Group, is a must-visit inside "Khudozhestvenny." Brand chef Dan Miron (Mamie, Saray) and chef Anatoly Levizov are behind the menu. Among the breakfasts you'll find oatmeal with parmesan, mushrooms, and a poached egg, blini with smoked halibut and cream cheese, and syrniki with strawberry and lemon sour cream. You can only get them on weekends from 10:00 to 13:00; I was disappointed by the seating — three tables on Sunday morning, growing to a good half of the room by noon. It's nice that there's valet parking nearby, and the service is friendly and quick. The understated table settings round out an already harmonious context. By the way, pairing breakfast at the restaurant with a movie at the theater is a great way to start a day off.

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Interior

Studio Livingnow, led by Evgenia Uzhegova (Muse, Lila Asia, Insider), handled the interior. The team preserved Shekhtel's architecture, pairing it with a patterned Karelian birch ceiling and a stained-glass bar. Warm lighting creates a pleasant, intimate atmosphere, and the vintage chandelier deserves a special look. White tablecloths on the tables, parquet on the floor.

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What did I try?

— Zucchini fritters, salmon, stracciatella, 830₽  — an aesthetic presentation with a fresh salad mix. The stracciatella works more as a sauce, and the delicate salmon next to it pairs beautifully with the light, airy texture of the fritters. A pleasant balance, I recommend it. 

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— Cappuccino with almond milk, 330₽ — a pretty small portion, 150 ml, but it was enough for me.
— Croissant, butter, jam, 570₽  — a slightly dry base was saved by a generous helping of butter and delicious cherry confiture. It still needs to live up to the price, though. I kept wondering when croissants in Moscow started costing 500₽. 

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— Vareniki with cherry, strawberry, and rhubarb, 510₽ — a classic take on vareniki with lemon sour cream. Unexpected, yet solid. My only issue is the look — the cherry confiture stains the dough, so the dish looks unappetizingly gray on the plate. The flavor makes up for it all. 
— Many of my friends praise the blini here, but I never got around to trying them. Let me know in the comments if you've managed to taste them.

Overall impression

No exaggeration: excellent service, with minimal gaps between courses, proper presentation, and a considerate request for feedback. Life hack — if you enjoy calm, come earlier; by noon the restaurant comes alive and fills up with people. Great breakfasts amid a pleasant crowd and atmosphere — the place earns its spot in our restaurant guide for good reason. 

29.01.2024

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