Breakfast at ZOE on Myasnitskaya

Simplicity seems to be built into the project by default: a modern interior with an open bakery and wildflowers on the communal tables, plenty of wood and concrete, an appetizing display case with pastries in every shape, color, and base — from puff to choux pastry. Besides pastries, all the trappings of a bistro are here. On a Sunday morning (9:30), more than 50% of the space was occupied. Breakfast is served daily from 08:00.

What did I try?

• Green salad with blood orange, avocado, and stracciatella, 670₽ — a great, fresh pairing of orange and stracciatella, though it lost a little to the greens and daikon in the mix.

• Build-your-own breakfast with salmon, 570₽ — served with a soft-boiled egg, a caper cream, guacamole, a green salad with radish and quinoa popcorn. Toasted tartine on the side. The plate is clearly a bit small for this crowd, so instead of a build-your-own breakfast, the dish looks more like a salad. The salmon stands out in particular: it's not the usual color at all. Turns out it's marinated in beet, hence the vividness. Not bad, especially given the price, though the city clearly has more refined options.

• Focaccia sandwich with truffle ricotta and mortadella, 660₽ — the favorite of my breakfast, with a generous portion of mortadella. The only inconvenience is the sauce — there's so much of it that the bottom bun soaked through right away, making it awkward to eat and hold.

Zoe is the first place in the restaurant guide to open up a new café category (the corresponding filter will appear in an upcoming update). Naturally, this format comes with lower expectations. The bakery on Myasnitskaya is worth stopping by for first-class pastries (the cream donut especially) and classic breakfasts. They took my feedback, and I think they'll tighten up the menu a bit. Not spilling any insider details yet, but I know they're already working on it. I'll definitely be back — to try the updates and order favorites like the mortadella sandwich.