Altro Beef Bistro — an Everyday Restaurant in the Spirit of New Elegance.

A modern bistro with an emphasis on meat dishes by chef Sergey Galtsev. The meat, for instance, is cooked over a josper and dry-aged in a dedicated chamber. Among the meat specialties: a RAW section with tartares and carpaccio, BBQ ribs, skirt steak with purée. In the interior: olive-colored walls, herringbone parquet, vintage furniture and tableware. It's clear the interior wasn't over-invested in — everything is done simply and with taste. The space, incidentally, was designed by Yulia Surova, a graduate of the Stieglitz Academy (Renaissance Construction, Yard). 

What did I try?

• Striploin carpaccio, 890₽ — a variation on vitello tonnato, which is worth noting. The excellent product quality is preserved. The starter pairs perfectly with red wine.

• Green salad with aged parmesan, 590₽ — a bowl with a mix of fresh greens and parmesan, no extra dressing at all. A light, basic combination, a great green side for meat.

• Filet mignon with foie gras, 2590₽ — served with mashed potatoes along with parmesan. The meat's default doneness is medium. A great hot dish, especially paired with the green salad.

• Paris-Brest, 590₽ — a dessert named after the Paris–Brest–Paris bicycle race. In its classic form, it's a ring of choux pastry filled with praline cream. Here they serve their own signature version: a curd-cheese ring with a sponge-cake texture, cream inside, and chocolate on top. A definite recommendation.

The bistro will be remembered for its clean interior and the atmosphere of a neighborhood “local.” Over a glass of Zinfandel, I really wanted to give it an 8, but I slapped myself back to reality — no, it's a solid 7. A worthy score for a place that just opened, and a chance to grow. Service especially needs strengthening: they clear the table decently, but don't offer the menu again or a second glass. 

On top of that, a very long wait for dessert and the bill. The details need work too: check the furniture, for instance. The round table in the center spins and wobbles — it's irritating. In short, there's still work to do, though even now the place makes it into the restaurant guide.