

An Italian pizzeria by Aram Mnatsakanov on Bolshaya Morskaya. The restaurant opened in the former Mama Tuta space, with Italian Manu, or Manuel Suraci, taking the brand chef role in the new project — hence the name. The menu brings together Italian classics: pasta, salads, small starters like olives and sun-dried tomatoes, but the main focus is on pizza. Manuel Suraci developed a special dough for Manu: thin and very crispy at the edges.

Interior
Not much has changed drastically — it's still just as intimate, with only 25 seats. The one thing that immediately catches the eye is that the interior clearly became simpler, at times even feeling a bit sparse decor-wise. Lacquered panels line the walls, a vintage chandelier hangs from the ceiling, and color comes from chairs and sofas upholstered in green velvet and a sandy-toned bar counter. On one of the walls, you can spend a long time studying a huge panel — a reproduction of a fresco fragment by Luca Giordano, the Italian Renaissance painter. Outside, light snow is falling, pleasant music plays in the room — it's a weekday, and I'm pleasantly surprised the restaurant isn't empty at lunch.
What did I try?
— Salento Primitivo, 700₽ — an Italian red wine that warms you up nicely in winter. Recommend it.
— Caprese with Fior di Latte mozzarella, 900₽ — a generous portion where the cheese quality stands out immediately. The pink tomatoes aren't the kind you'd come back for. Served with pitted olives. A solid base and a good choice for a starter.

— Vitello tonnato, 790₽ — served with a big cap of arugula; the delicate ham doesn't get lost, but instead unfolds organically in the tuna sauce. I usually want a clean product with a measured line between meat and sauce, and here they got that so right that all I can do is highlight and praise the balance. Though honestly, a bit less sauce would have worked well too😉

— Pizza Margherita, 690₽ — thin crust, appetizing look. If you love the Neapolitan version with puffy edges, fair warning: here the crust is dry and brittle, more like bread chips.
— Tagliolini with shrimp and zucchini, 1050₽ — one of those cases where you know right away the dish is going to be delicious. The memorable smell of the sauce hits you from the start. The pasta is cooked perfectly.

Overall impression
I want to specifically highlight the service, in case that matters to you. The waiters rattle off the menu fluently and give great recommendations, including on the wine list. Everything is polite and attentive, with considerate follow-up. A decent place to meet friends — for lunch or in the evening, in good company. The place earns its spot in our restaurant guide, though not as a date spot — there are far more romantic options out there.
29.01.2024
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