Tel Aviv by Saviv Review

An Israeli project on New Holland by Antonio Fresa, owner not just of the cult bistro Saviv but also a solid collection of Italian restaurants: Sea, Signora, Fresa's, and Marco Polo. A small space that actually looks better in person than in photos: vivid accents, loft-style furniture, a stylized ceiling. On a weekday afternoon, about 40% of the tables were occupied, with a strikingly mixed crowd. Fast, attentive service: the waiter tactfully hinted that three dishes would be too much for one person.

What did I try?

• Hummus with shrimp, 930₽ — comes straight away with fresh pita and a portion of barely-warm shrimp. They got lost under a thick layer of oil and greasy sauce. If the shrimp had come without the sauce, and there had been more herbs, the impression would have changed a lot. 
• Muhammara, 560₽ — a modest portion of roasted pepper spread with walnuts and fresh parsley. A great choice as a starter, especially since it comes straight away with pita. The flavor was missing some sweetness, raisins for instance. 
• Slow-cooked veal cheeks with purée, 1350₽ — a generously sized hot dish, tender meat paired with a beautifully made purée. Didn't taste any heat in the sauce at all, even though the waiter warned about it. Recommend it.

One of those cases where expectations and reality lined up. The place fully lives up to its positioning and price point: no pretension, but a solid baseline kitchen and pleasant service all around. It doesn't quite make it into the restaurant guide yet, though. Tel Aviv is a comfortable spot for families as well as for those who just walked out of a cycling class at my friend Oleg Rudakov's Rock the Cycle.