René: Breakfast Review at a St. Petersburg Café

A café by the Aster team inside the famous Singer House, where the House of Books reopened after renovation. Neighboring bookshelves and incredible views of Nevsky Prospekt and Kazan Cathedral — that's the short description of the René space. The line between the bookstore and the café is blurred to the point that finding it without any signage might not be so easy, but here's a hint — head up to the second floor. There you'll find several tables along the windows, a display case with fresh pastries, a bar, and the main dining room.

French and Russian cuisines merge on the menu: French onion soup, salade niçoise, and beef tartare sit alongside vareniki, ukha, and pirozhki. Brand chef Roman Kiselev (Solids, Nothing Fancy), who started out and learned the basics of cooking in France, worked on it. Breakfast, which is what the Vkusonomika team tried, is only available on a walk-in basis, so it's worth arriving early so you don't have to wait long for a free table. 

Interior 

René's interior was designed by architectural bureau Aurore, led by Maria Kachalova (Aster, Aster Bakery). They managed to create the atmosphere of a last-century French bistro while preserving the building's historic heritage and the spirit of St. Petersburg. One of the space's distinctive features is the huge arched windows overlooking the city, decorating all the restaurant's rooms. The walls combine gray and green, the floor bright multicolored tile. The furniture plays its part too: semicircular red sofas add brightness, while restored chairs from the "Ya. and I. Kon" and "Thonet Brothers" factories carry you back in time.

What did we try? 

— Green salad with a poached egg, 790₽. Lettuce, quinoa, broccoli, zucchini, cucumber, topped with a poached egg and three oil-based dressings — the result is a fairly varied mix with plenty of greens. If you want something fresh first thing in the morning, there's a separate cashew-based sauce.
— Blini with salmon, 690₽. Served with salmon, sour cream, and herbs. The blini are thin and lacy, generously buttered. I recommend it — a real morning pleasure.
— Millet porridge with pumpkin, lingonberry, and halva, 420₽. Made with lactose-free milk, though you can choose one of the alternative options instead. Cloyingly sweet, to the point where it sets your teeth on edge. The slightly tart lingonberry jam saved the situation a bit and helped balance the flavor somewhat. 
— Syrniki with berry confiture, 490₽.  A letdown here, unfortunately. The syrniki arrived runny on the inside, with a hint of rancid oil on top of that. Naturally, I didn't like it at all.

Overall impression

What you get is a combo of generous portions and impressive views. It was nice that the waiters know the menu well and can rattle it off fluently. You can come here not just for a coffee catch-up but for a full breakfast, so René earns its spot in our restaurant guide fair and square.