Dinner at St. Petersburg's Harvest

Dinner at St. Petersburg's Harvest

A signature project by Duoband
29.01.24

A signature restaurant from the Duoband team, which turned 5 this year. Harvest's philosophy centers on vegetables with unusual sauces and original preparations, though the restaurant isn't vegetarian — Dmitry Blinov's menu also has meat and seafood dishes. The unconventional flavor combinations are a pleasant surprise: dried beet is paired with young cheese, tarragon, and walnuts; orzo pasta with pumpkin and feta; and smoked salmon is served with radish and sour cream.   

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Interior

Inside it's just as elegant and minimalist as it was a couple of years ago, when I was last here. Harvest's interior is the work of designer Alexey Penyuk and his Studio APAA (Sage, Mr. Lee, Recolte, 345). A spacious room in light tones with no excess detail: understated light fixtures over each table, oak furniture, a spiral staircase, big windows that fill the space with natural light during the day, and natural materials in the finishing. A pleasant atmosphere and 30% occupancy for a weekday lunch. The staff know their craft: the first appetizer arrived in a flash, practically eliminating any gap between courses. 

What did I try?

— Dried beet with young cheese, 550₽ — a benchmark starter. Just cheese, but tarragon and caramelized walnuts are woven harmoniously into its texture. It's just beet, in theory, but in this combination it comes out especially gastronomic. 

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— Seared scallops with foie gras sauce, 890₽ — alongside the scallops, ptitim and cauliflower take the spotlight. Another dish that confirms Blinov comes up with recipes that others execute beautifully. A rare match! 
— Duck breast with pear and hazelnut, 950₽ — served on a bed of roasted carrot, with pear and hazelnut purée. Sounds a touch more appetizing than it looks, but there's nothing to fault in the flavor. A winning combination, no question. The duck would have been juicier cooked rare. I confidently recommend it, even as served. 

Overall impression

Perhaps the one restaurant that genuinely deserves a 10. With one caveat — if it had just opened. Signature cuisine with a rare focus on vegetables, an experienced staff, and a high-quality culinary experience overall. I'm even surprised that a bar set once can be maintained for so long, without regard for a changing world around it. Special respect for the consistency and, it seems, invulnerability. 

29.01.2024

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