Review of the New Restaurant Mela

Review of the New Restaurant Mela

A two-story restaurant by Emin Agalarov.
14.11.24

Basically, Mela translates from Italian as "apple." The first floor is set aside for a secret bar, while in the main dining room — a mix of Italian, Spanish, Mediterranean, and Asian cuisines in brand chef Kirill Berger's interpretation. From raw and meze to oven-baked pizza and octopus in a pepper-and-feta sauce. A bold interior by bureau Archpoint: light walls paired with bright accents, nods to the '70s, contemporary art, delicate table settings, and live flowers, a rarity these days. It all looks festive and genuinely celebratory. Welcoming staff: they found us a table quickly, served promptly and competently, clarifying the courses and sharing menu recommendations.

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What did I try?
 

Hummus with pita — as a complimentary starter. Decent, though still a bit basic and not quite fitting for a concept like this.
Beef tartare, 980₽. Lightning-fast presentation, resembling the Paris version in look. On one plate, the tartare itself with green onion and sauce; on the other, first-class fries, the best I've had in a while. The flavor of every ingredient comes through, though I'll note the dish could taste cleaner with the sauce removed and a coarser dice. I'll allow that's my own pull toward the classics — the approach here is different. 
Green salad, 1250₽ — the plating stands out right away, the plate especially. Inside: fresh iceberg, avocado, cucumber, green beans, and avocado with apple. That mix makes the salad a bit bolder than at many other places. An original flavor with a citrus dressing, a generous portion. 
Duck confit with corn risotto, 1400₽ — served with truffle. The side gastronomically rounds out the duck leg, which has almost no flaws. A worthy hot dish.

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Pleasantly surprised by my visit to Mela. I went in with no expectations at all and came away with a great culinary experience. A well-calibrated interior (aside from a couple of columns finished in small tile), excellent food, and pleasant service — if only they collected feedback from guests. The place can be recommended for both dinner and lunch. A worthy score and, as a result, a spot in Vkusonomika's restaurant guide.

 

 

14.11.2024

The best places in the city

Review of the New Restaurant Mela. The Taste — restaurant guide.