

An ascetic interior by architecture bureau Roobi, with two rooms. Ascetic in the literal sense, too: plank flooring, painted walls, a wooden ceiling. Simple and tasteful. On the menu: tartares, roast chicken, fresh salads, pastas, sourdough flatbreads — in short, the cuisine of a European city bistro. A very pleasant vibe and crowd, decent service, everything fairly prompt. I'll admit right away: my expectations going in were high.

What did I try?
• Dewar's — I'm used to whisky being served in a classic rocks glass, but here it came in what looked like a shrunken highball. I get that a good product isn't ruined by the glass, and yet the glass really does matter — both for letting the drink open up properly, and so the guest can at least enjoy the aesthetics.
• Shrimp, chili-lime oil, fennel salad, 820₽. Tiger shrimp served with a lemon wedge and a fresh salad that plays up the seafood's flavor. The one thing I struggle with is praising shrimp served tail-on and shell-on, though the starter really is worthy. If only the shrimp had all been cooked equally well instead of varying from one to the next.
• Beef tartare, panisse, onion mayo, parmesan, 890₽ — excellent product quality, though the clean flavor gets slightly overpowered by the bold sauce. Tasty and definitely gastronomic in look. The presentation and portion size impress.
• Green salad, cashew Caesar dressing, 750₽ — a mix of greens with avocado, broccoli, and nori. A bold, unexpected choice. I'd swap the dressing for a more classic citrus version, but that's personal preference. The green salad will definitely work well as a side to meat, a steak especially — to refresh the palate.
• Bavette steak, bone-marrow butter, bordelaise, 950₽ — flawless doneness, so I strongly recommend it.

18.11.2024
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