Mamie

On Bolshaya Nikitskaya, between the Conservatory and the Arbat, Lucky Group opened a bistro with a telling name — Mamie, French for "grandma." That word sets the tone for the whole project: no culinary tricks, no over-engineered plating. The kitchen is led by brand chef Dan Miron and chef Taras Kirienko, and their approach fits in one sentence: find a great ingredient and cook it quickly, simply and deliciously.

Our guide's team calls Mamie one of those rare places that feels like coming home.

Designer Alexey Penyuk of Studio APAA immersed the room in the aesthetic of a southern French country house — and the landing is exact. The interior reads as contemporary yet remarkably authentic: as if you'd arrived at an old country house where everything is a little retro, yet somehow looks wonderful. The floor is laid in travertine, the ceilings are lined with barn boards, and the windows and façade are finished in red oak. The furniture is sourced from the fifties and sixties — worn chairs and tables that look as though they'd always stood there. The walls feature works by young artists, alongside vintage candlesticks and fresh flowers. The eye keeps catching on small details: every corner of the room is thought through. The lighting is soft and warm, and the staff uniforms hit exactly the right note. The room seats 110, and the right-hand room has a large table for groups — a great option for a birthday.

The core of the menu is tried-and-true French classics: steak tartare Parisian style, entrecôte with pepper sauce, French onion soup. The wood-fired oven and josper grill do much of the heavy lifting. The duck leg comes out with a deeply browned crust, and the potatoes with onion are a straight teleport to childhood — a copy of grandma's own recipe. The starters deserve a mention of their own — they're genuinely excellent, and many guests order several at once. The Niçoise is served in an elevated version: seared tuna instead of raw, artichokes, green beans and top-quality tomatoes. Breakfast is a strength of its own: crêpes, omelets, seasonal refreshes every few months. Among the desserts, the apple pie with crème anglaise stands out.

The cocktail list was built by head bartender Maxim Gorelik, blending classic recipes with French accents. The Kir Royal is made with house-made berry liqueur, and the Provence Spritz is poured from the tap. The wine was chosen by Dmitry Kipelkin and Elena Akhvatova — the glass list is France only, from traditional châteaux to young winemakers. For those who want to step outside France, there's Corvina on offer.

Our undercover guests rated dinner 8 out of 10 and breakfast 8 out of 10.