Nikitskaya 16/5

At 16/5 Malaya Nikitskaya, Aram Mnatsakanov's team returns to the legacy of Probka: the restaurateur opened the first wine bar under that name 25 years ago. The core idea of this new format is freedom in how you drink wine. Guests aren't limited to a single glass or a full bottle — almost every listing on the card can be ordered by the small pour, the half bottle, or the whole bottle. That makes the restaurant read as much like a wine bar with a proper kitchen as a restaurant.

Our restaurant guide's team hasn't seen Aram Mnatsakanov run a weak project yet, and this one looks every bit as solid.

The menu itself is short, built around a clear Italian line and flavor rather than a long list of dishes. Simone Gobbi is behind the menu, chef Arkady Filimonov runs the kitchen, and Sabrina Grek manages the project. The press release singles out how the first guests reacted — praising the food itself, not just making allowances for a temporary format. Mnatsakanov himself calls the restaurant a pop-up marking Probka's anniversary while the team works out how to rebuild the space for the long term.

The architecture was handled by Evgeny Neymand's studio: the room turned out restrained, with almost no decor beyond one strong artistic detail. A large painting by Gogi Totibadze, “Morning in Prenzlauer Berg,” hangs on the wall — the same image is used on the menu and wine list. In summer, a terrace goes up by the open windows, close in mood to neighboring MINA. Tables aren't booked in advance: seating is first come, first served.