Joli Grand Bistrot

The former courtyard of the 1859 Myasnikov mansion was enclosed in glass, creating a space unlike a typical Saint Petersburg dining room: high ceilings, plenty of daylight, the feel of an open terrace even on a cloudy day. Designer Evgenia Uzhegova, known for Eva and Juan Cantina Española, built the interior around the image of a natural garden — without forced decorativeness, with soft textures, flowers by the entrance, and close attention to tableware, table settings, and staff uniforms.

Our guide's team finds a sense of home comfort here that's rare for a restaurant — the aesthetic shows in everything, from the seasonal decor to the table setting.

The "grand bistrot" format carries a light irony: the place wasn't conceived as a formal restaurant for special occasions, but as a spacious, beautiful and approachable everyday address. The name Joli translates as "lovely," and that idea comes through here not in grand gestures but in the combination of light, flowers, the bakery display at the entrance, and calm cooking with no unnecessary complication.

Brand chef Viktor Kislinsky changes the menu with the seasons while keeping guest favorites in place. At its core: tartares, fresh salads, steaks, pasta, fish, and sauces with distinct characters — familiar Hollandaise and vinaigrette sit alongside Mignonette and Café de Paris, which the waitstaff are happy to explain in more detail. Memorable after a visit are the beef tartare with Mornay sauce and house-baked toasted bread, the beef tongue with pepper sauce and onion jam, and the Niçoise with confit tuna.

The wine list, led by head sommelier Anastasia Maximova, runs to about 250 labels with a focus on France, Italy, Germany and Russia. Head bartender Alexander Nekrasov handles the cocktails: classic Bellini, Manhattan and Negroni are joined by an original list conceived as a journey through France in three chapters — "Beach," "Garden" and "Mountains," three drinks in each.

At the entrance is Joli Bakery — a bakery with croissants, vatrushki, baguettes and fougasse for the main room; it also bakes the bread for tapas at the neighboring Juan Cantina Española. In the morning, the space runs as a coffee shop with breakfast: reviews mention the almond-milk cappuccino, a green breakfast with salmon and poached egg, and cottage cheese with fig and almond. Our undercover guests rated it 9 out of 10 for breakfast, for the speed of service, ingredient quality, and the overall morning experience under the glass dome.

By dinner, the mood shifts: the light softens, a touch of fine dining enters the room, though the idea remains an everyday restaurant. Our undercover guests rated dinner 8 out of 10, for well-organized service, careful flavor combinations, and an atmosphere that makes you want to linger at the table longer than planned.