Pino

White tablecloths, lacquered wood, plenty of open air, and an open kitchen where the cooks work in full view of guests — Pino's ground floor is built in a bright eclectic style with nods to 1960s aesthetics. That signature is recognizable across the restaurateur's last several projects. The basement level has a completely different mood: an intimate room with a contact bar counter you want to linger at.

Our guide's team notes that mornings are especially quiet on Malaya Bronnaya — and Pino knows how to put that quiet to good use.

The menu here follows the logic of the day. From 8am: breakfast — a poached egg with fried onion and truffle, a club sandwich with salmon, a bagel with cream cheese and avocado, a potato pancake with crab, pancakes. You can build your own plate, choosing a base — eggs, grains, yogurt — and adding to it as you like. To go with coffee: an almond croissant, a chocolate snail or a sweet bun — the pastries are all baked in-house.

Brand chef Ruslan Polyakov built the menu around a few clear sections. The raw table: beef tartare with avocado and truffle, sea bass ceviche, shrimp carpaccio. Pasta ranges from a minimalist aglio e olio to casarecce with rabbit ragù. The mushroom risotto and some of the pasta dishes come in gluten-free versions. In the hot section, look for sea bass with potato and velouté, octopus with aioli, or filet mignon with a pepper crust and a rich demiglace.

The To Share section is built for a group: braised lamb shoulder, chicken with morels, Wiener schnitzel. The grill turns out striploin, ribeye and filet mignon, plus crab claws — a dish hard to pass up.

Our undercover guests rated it 8 out of 10 for breakfast, for a harmonious balance of a well-edited menu, unobtrusive service, and an atmosphere that feels especially lively in the morning. Dinner earned the same score, 8 out of 10, for balanced cooking and a cozy setting that works equally well for two or for a group.

Pino on Malaya Bronnaya has no single script. People come here for a business brunch, a family lunch on a day off, and a low-key dinner when you want something dependable without unnecessary formality.